AW16 MEN'S LUXURY WATCH EDIT

12th October 2016

The definitive directory of what you should be wearing on your wrist right now. Words by Alex Doak.

Audemars-Piguet-Royal-Oak-Perpetual-Calendar-Yellow-Gold-2

AUDEMARS PIGUET
royal oak perpetual calendar in yellow gold

With a design as unique and pure as that of the Royal Oak, you shouldn’t dare to mess – such a masterpiece of octagonal form is not amenable to complication. Hence designer Gérald Genta’s bespoke, “tapisserie” engraved dial, lending a clean, unfussy texture. The exception is when it comes to Audemars Piguet’s particular horological speciality: the perpetual calendar. The four subdials – day, date, month, moonphase – align pleasingly with the cardinal points of that iconic bezel, lending even more gravitas to those noble facets.

66349 | £76,800

ro_26574ba-oo-1220ba-01_sdt_prcmyk
green-camo

HUBLOT
unico italia independent green camo

Trust Hublot – fine watchmaking’s bad-boy disruptor – to team up with flamboyant character, Lapo Elkann. The Fiat empire scion and driver of a camouflaged Ferrari 458 Italia is behind luxury eyewear brand Italia Independent, which has collaborated on a new limited edition chronograph for the Swiss watchmaker. Its clever combination of carbon fibre and green “texalium” woven fiberglass gives the case an Elkannworthy camouflage wrap. And if you want, you can co-ordinate with a pair of Hublot sunnies from Italia Independent, a snip at £997 per pair.

65280 | £24,300

411-yg-1198-nr-iti16-sd-hr-w-2
tes_blue_emotionelle

ARNOLD & SON
tes blue tourbillon

The resemblance to your typical 18th-century English pocket watch may seemingly end with the Arnold & Son logo, but the Swiss revival of the London chronometer maker is just as clever with mechanics as John Arnold himself. What sets the new TES Blue Tourbillon apart is its modern take on his distinguished, three-dimensional English movement: the barrel bridge for instance has the traditional wave form but is made out of sapphire to allow a maximum view of the openworked barrel, wheels and that vibrant, cobalt-blue mainplate.

65377 | £115,000

1sjaw-v01a-c129w
g22-08-br126-aeronavale

BELL & ROSS
vintage br 126 aéronavale

While Bremont’s remembrance of a legendary Thirties air race is unashamedly nostalgic and rakish, Bell & Ross continues to fly its steady course designing crisp and contemporary updates of the classical pilot-watch trope – even when it comes to its Vintage BR range, tapping into the golden age of aviation and all its associated derring-do. No photograph will ever do justice to the blue and brass of the brand’s latest tribute to the French Naval Air Arm, but take it from us: there are watches costing five times as much that wouldn’t look nearly as dashing peeping from the cuff of an Admiral’s mess uniform.

65651 | £3,350

sku65651
high_pfc101-0004200-ha1442_tech_dos_cmjn_0

PARMIGIANI
kalpa xl hebdomadaire

“True riches do not need to be revealed,” says Parmigiani Fleurier, “they are precious because they are discreet.” And thus, to mark the 20th anniversary of Switzerland’s pre-eminent, classical-with-a-twist fine watchmaker, the manufacture has unveiled this one-off handsome devil, its steel case shrouding a movement made entirely of yellow gold. It’s especially impressive as micro-mechnics made of the precious metal present a real challenge: gold sticks to the tools, it easily deforms, plus all the machines must be completely recalibrated from usual.

66378 | £64,400

pfc101-0001600-ha1242
Baume-et-Mercier-Clifton_mobile_teaser

BAUME & MERCIER
clifton chronograph complete calendar

It’s baffling how Baume & Mercier manage to cram so much into a watch like this. To start, you have a beautifully engineered, 43mm steel case and supremely ergonomic sevenrow bracelet rendered exquisitely in alternately polished and satinated handfinish. Then there’s the dial it frames: silvered with rhodium-plated applique indexes, protected by an anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Crystal on the caseback even gives a view inside: a top-notch Swiss automatic movement, hand-finished and hand-assembled. All for £3,850? Go figure.

66379 | £3,850

bmm0a10279
Header

BREMONT
dh-88 limited edition

The latest limited edition from Britain’s plucky watchmaker celebrates one of the greatest aeronautic competitions of all time and the British plane that won it: 1934’s London to Melbourne Air Race and de Havilland’s DH-88 Comet. Trailing clear skies and 11,300 miles, pilots Charles Scott and Tom Campbell-Black fought exhaustion and mechanical challenges to win in just three days, paving the way for longhaul aviation. Each of Bremont’s 364 chronometer-rated chronograph GMTs includes a piece of the original spruce plywood from the plane’s undercarriage.

66059 | £14,995

dh-88-rg-front-wbg

CONTINUE READING

6f3921c1b219a9c6cb5232719ecf0d7ae471660d_desktop

AW16 LADIES LUXURY WATCH EDIT

Miniature versions of men’s watches, moon phases and the return of yellow gold. It’s an exciting time for ladies timepieces, as Laura McCreddie Doak explains what’s haute in Horlogerie.

spirit_moonphase

HUBLOT SPIRIT OF BIG BANG MOONPHASE

Admirers of other iconic Hublot watches will of course be familiar with the titanium H-screws on the bezel, the layered case construction and the use of a natural rubber strap; but that is where the similarities end. The Hublot mantra “The Art of Fusion” is particularly applicable to this watch, as it is such a successful fusion of a traditional tonneau watch shape, and the modernity of other Hublot timepieces.

BG_sang_bleu_BW-1

PAINSTAKING PERFECTION

Of all the wonderful pieces unveiled in Geneva this year very few made an impact quite like the newly reinvented Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu collection. Building on their relationship with Maxime Buchi – founder of Sang Bleu – and the unprecedented success of the first collaborative effort, Hublot have this time released, not one, but three new timepieces sure to whet the appetite of watch lovers the world over!